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Planting Designs 
A full garden design obviously includes a new planting plan and lists, but also the hard landscaping elements. However sometimes the skeleton of the garden is already present and satisfactory for the clients’ needs and what is wanted is a refurbishment and rethink of the soft landscaping – otherwise known as the plants. The examples shown give a flavour of what can be achieved, some showing the newly planted schemes, others showing the evolution over a few seasons. |
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Pests, Predators, Weeds and Saviours: Part 2 |
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Pests, Predators, Weeds and Saviours: Part 2  In part 1, I defined different types of weeds; pests also bear some definition. There are the tiny aphids – greenfly, whitefly, blackfly, for example; then larger beasts such as vine weevil (commonly found in pots), slugs, squirrels, foxes, deer, pets, children and teenagers. And possibly helpful spouses, but that’s another story. Some of these are easier to go to war with than others; for some you will have more armaments than the opposition.
At the end of part 1, I briefly mentioned beneficial insects such as bees. These, and others such as lacewings and ladybirds, can be encouraged into your garden to do battle for you by growing a wide range of flowering plants and providing over wintering shelter. Native species such as late flowering buddleia, commonly known as butterfly bush (now there’s a clue!) are always good as they tend to have the single flowers that most insects find easiest to draw nectar from. Some of these beneficial insects are not merely nectar drinkers, but predators as mean as any twenty times their size; Ladybirds eat aphids, for example, positively chomp on them with strong mandibles.
Other helpful predators are amphibians such as frogs and toads who will enjoy keeping your slug population under control just as the cheerfully serenading blackbird will smash snail shells and eat the contents. Please note the phrase ‘under control’. The predators need something to eat so will not get rid of all the pests. Whilst dedicated annihilators may be able to rid their garden of all pests from greenfly to deer in their dreams, the reality is that even using all the chemicals available, they’ll still be a hardy slug or fox sneaking in as soon as your back is turned.
What other options are open to the conscientious who would like to enjoy their garden without using too many chemicals? Biological control is becoming easier for domestic gardener to access; for example, nematodes (tiny organisms, so small they are invisible to the eye) for reducing slug damage and Encarsa Formosa, a parasitic wasp, for aphid damage, particularly effective in a confined environment such as a greenhouse; both are available at garden centres and on line.
Foxes are more often seen in urban and suburban areas more than rural these days, for various reasons, not least including a good and reliable food supply. This would probably not bother us if it were not for the great fun foxes then have digging up plants and puncturing footballs left out overnight! There are sprays that can be bought to dissuade foxes from entering your garden, largely based on citric fruits - you may have noticed that whilst your dogs will eat most raw fruit and vegetables, they’re not keen on oranges and the like. Blocking up all holes and under sheds helps too, but don’t be surprised if the foxes still find a way in.
A multi- pronged defence is most likely to work; to start with, make sure there is little to attract them in the first place. Clear overgrown gardens which could provide resting areas, and make sure there is no food available; be sure your compost bin has a tight lid, for example. Blood, fish and bone fertilisers attract foxes, so use sparingly and dig well into the soil. Then spray along tops of fences with citrus or hot pepper based spray; if you have an adult male around, get them to take a leak around possible runs and holes (easier for them, not being sexist!); and/or if you have dogs (either gender) encourage them to scent mark around entry points.
We haven’t really got onto the damage cats and dogs (whether your own or a neighbour’s) can cause – and they can cause damage! Years of being a gardener as well as a cat & dog owner has, I hope, made me fairly sanguine - until one of them digs up the sweet pea seedlings I’ve just planted (again)…Some of the tricks for foxes – citrus & hot pepper - work against pets too. Can I just suggest that if you’re tired of your own cats using the whole garden as a litter try that you encourage them into one area (there are herbal based ‘training’ sprays available), rather than discouraging them totally so they go next door (NOT good practice!)
Children and teenagers as pests in the garden rather than helpers or a pleasure is, funnily enough, partially resolved through careful design…you know who to contact for that!
 Pests, Predators, Weeds and Saviours is something of an ongoing narrative, so - To be continued… |
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Whilst our policy is to recycle both green and non-green waste wherever possible, we do not remove green waste automatically from site.
You would need to request this service. It may be more economical for you to use another service or option. For example, you may like to consider a compost bin as this will take soft garden waste as well as kitchen waste. Most local councils have special offers for residents.
Local councils Green Waste collection Many Councils are now trialing ways of increasing their recycling so please check with your local council for updates.
You can use the garden waste service to dispose of flowers and plants, grass clippings, hedge trimmings, leaves, twigs and branches up to three inches in diameter.
Further details and options are available for discussion during project meetings. |
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PruningPruning is one of the least understood practices of garden and landscape maintenance. Before attempting to prune shrubs and trees, consider the basic principles of pruning. Reasons for Pruning - To remove diseased, dead, or dying branches and stems.
- To maintain or limit the size and shape of a plant to avoid it overpowering neighbouring plants
- To remove undesirable growth that distracts from the balance or symmetry of the plant
- To remove reversion foliage on variegated plants
- To stimulate flowering and/or fruit production
- To develop a specific plant form, such as training an espalier
- Restorative pruning or renovation of old plants to reinvigorate
To remove plant parts that may interfere with structures or utility lines |
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A selection of some of the questions we are asked fairly regularly, with short answers. For a more individual response, you may like to arrange a site visit and consultation. TreesWhat is a TPO? A TPO or Tree Preservation Order, has been placed on a tree to prevent anyone from cutting it down or otherwise harming a tree that is considered to be of importance, perhaps because it is a an attractive specimen and passers by enjoy seeing it, or because it is important as a habitat, for example, many oak trees have TPOs. These trees can still be pruned, but permission needs to be got first. Don’t worry; we can help you through the process! We always check for TPOs and conservation orders as well the condition of the tree itself. Some trees can only be pruned at certain times of the year, because of infection or dormancy, for example and we take this and other factors into consideration. Anyone who offers to prune your tree or trees without checking these matters may not be a good person or company to choose for the work. Why does it need pruning? With a few exceptions, trees should be regularly pruned to maintain their health, and to ensure that they are not getting too big for their situation, casting too much shade, etc. We assess each tree individually, taking into account various factors, which will include when and how it was last pruned. (Trees often have different requirements as they age). My neighbour said my old pear tree must be dying as it cropped so well last year. Is that true? If it’s an old tree, or diseased, it may be having a ‘last fling’ if the crop was particularly full; but equally so, it could have just been a good year in your area. Lawns Why is my lawn muddy all winter? The first things we would establish is what use the lawn gets over the winter; for example, football playing children, dogs chasing a ball around, chickens? Then we assess the overall condition of the lawn. Poor drainage is the usual culprit, sorting out this problem and seeding with a different type of grass will help.
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Composting - a load of rubbish? |
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Did you know that the first organised landfill was happening c5000 years ago in Crete? Now we’re running out of landfill space at a frightening rate it seems crazy not to ‘reduce reuse and recycle’ and composting kitchen & garden waste reduces the quantity of material being sent to landfill. When the compost is later returned to the soil (either dug in or as a mulch) it improves the condition of the soil and naturally enough, benefits the food crops and ornamental plants that we grow.
So what does compost do? Well, it’s quite magical as well as scientific. Dug into the soil it improves the drainage of heavy clay soils and the water retention of sandy ones. It’s food for earthworms who do all sorts of wonderful things to improve soil quality, not least helping with the release of essential nutrients from the compost into the soil (like our ‘5 a day’) which in turn benefits the plants. And remember even the diehard carnivores among you eat vegetables and salads, even if’s by the diverse route of through the grazing cattle that were your burger before it was a burger (if you see what I mean!) Applied as mulch onto the soil surface, compost can reduce the need for watering; keep plants cool in summer and warm in winter. Told you it was magic!
If we all compost as much as we can then we reduce the methane gas leaching form landfill into the atmosphere and so help reduce global warming. (Although there is a use for that methane gas as an energy source, there is still enough produced without compostable waste going to landfill).
How can you compost? Without getting too technical, there are three easy ways for the average person to compost at home and at work.
The most common is to have a compost heap, or more frequently, a recycled plastic or wooden bin. An enclosed bin works best as the heap heats up more efficiently and it is easier to keep the compost at the right degree of wetness/ dryness to break down quickly. Compost also needs to be kept aerated, usually by ‘turning’ or careful layering. Two bins are even better – one ready to use, one filling up. Flat bins are available where space is at a premium; wooden bins look decorative as do some of the ‘Grecian urn’ or ‘beehive’ varieties.
Wormeries – these utilise worms’ gourmet tendencies and are often suitable where less waste is generated or as an extra to a standard bin. Kids often like to ‘feed the worms’. Brandling worms are the most usual species in a wormery – native to the UK, but less of a burrowing worm, so better for this situation. The worms work their way through the different layers of the wormery leaving behind a rich vermicompost. A tap at the bottom layer allows for a nutrition rich liquid to be drained off, diluted and used as a liquid feed.
Bokashi – this was originally a Japanese system of composting. The above methods use oxygen as part of the composting process, this one excludes it. This system works well in flats and offices where there may not be any convenient outside space. When the bin is full it’s left for two weeks, then it can be added to an ordinary compost bin or dug in to the ground or taken to the councils green waste site (check this first, some councils are still hesitant). Two bins are necessary – one in use, one ‘cooking’. As with wormeries there is a nutrition rich liquid to drain off that can be used a separate feed – for indoor and outdoor plants.
What can you compost? Generally speaking, food waste but not cooked food, raw meat, bones can be added, as can soft or shredded garden waste, but not perennial weeds. Bokashi is different and can take all food waste, including cooked food and bones; small amounts of green garden waste – flowers, soft stems – can be put in. Each layer is pressed down and sprinkled over with a ’bran’ which contains anaerobic bacteria.
Autumn leaves are best composted in ‘leaf bags’ as they have different requirements. Torn newspaper, shredded documents, grass cuttings can all go in. The trick is to keep a balance of wet/ green items and dry/ brown items. This is your nitrogen/ carbon mix essential for good compost and speedy composting.
Animal bedding from small mammals can also be composted. It’s generally advisable to have a separate bin for this as it does take longer to decompose. Dog & cat faeces should be disposed of separately, for example, there are mini septic tank type products available for such use.
If you would like a consultation visit on how to incorporate composting into your home, garden and work environment, tailor-made to your particular requirements we are currently offering discounts!
Spot the wormery! |
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